What a book! The best biography I’ve read so far, Finnegan is such an incredible writer. I was on a month-long surf trip when I read it which made everything even better. Finnegan’s biography talks about his surfing life weaved in with his incredible personal stories and stories of writing. This book represents a life many people dream about: traveling the world, personal struggles with rebellion and freedom, falling in love, and understanding cultures, and he did it through the lens of surfing that is accessible to anyone.
- Grew up in Hawaii and California. Much of his childhood was spent surfing.
- Enrolled at UC Santa Cruz but dropped out to travel the world. First, with his girlfriend at the time around Europe. Later, on a surfing trip with a friend across the South Pacific, Australia and Africa.
- He always was a big reader and writer. Lots of fiction but also non-fiction. He wrote novels on the road, and also wrote articles about surfing and the cultures he found himself in.
- In the South Pacific and Australia, if he and Bryan ran out of money, they would stop and take interesting odd jobs for money.
- Backpacked through Africa with his brother
- Became a war reporter in incredibly dangerous places
- Currently lives in New York with his wife and daughter
- Surfed at every stage of his life